
Wells Chicken and Waffles hopes to take its sweet and salty Harlem delicacy nationwide but faces challenges. (Photo by Ashley Foxx)
Ann Wells, owner of Wells Chicken and Waffles, announced plans this fall to bring a Harlem tradition to hungry eaters across America with a string of franchise restaurants.
But those plans have stalled after the latest version of Wells’ restaurant, a small takeout that opened last year just ten blocks from the restaurant’s original Harlem location, shut its doors for more than a week. Wells was hospitalized for pneumonia and asthma, an ongoing battle. Now, the business is under new management, although Wells will retain ownership and continue to be involved.
Amadou Diop, who has more than 15 years of experience in the restaurant business managing Manhattan eateries like The Smoke Joint, said he has signed a 90-day management contract with Wells with the option to renew.
However, for many fans of this soul food institution who anxiously awaited word of her return, Wells wouldn’t have been the same without “Mama Wells,” as locals affectionately call her.
And after just a few minutes in her small storefront, it’s clear why. Her neat, silver gray bob is tucked behind a headband and her hazel eyes are full of both warmth and worry. She hovers like a protective mother, greeting customers at the door, overseeing each order and checking on the few diners who’ve opted to eat in.
“You’re not eating your chicken. Is it okay?” she asks one regular, Carl Holley, a local pastor having a plate of fried chicken and potato salad.
“It’s a little salty but it’s good, Miss Wells,” he replies.
But even the slightest criticism concerns Wells. She wipes her hands on her apron and sits down at the booth to discuss how her new chef should tweak the seasoning.
Wells, who’s in her 70s but demurely declines to specify an exact age, hoped to “complete the dream of the late Joseph T. Wells,” her husband and the restaurant’s founder, by taking his secret waffle-batter and chicken recipe nationwide, with Diop’s help.
However, Diop said 90 days may be insufficient to see the type of results Wells is expecting.
“When you’re running a restaurant, you sometimes don’t see profit or loss until 120 days,” said Diop, who’s also the head chef. “ But my vision right now is just to get back to serving the customers. Customers appreciate the food. I haven’t heard any complaints.”
Since 1938, Wells—as regulars call the place– has dished out home cooking, including the sweet and salty Harlem delicacy, chicken and waffles, that made it famous. During the Harlem Renaissance, late night crowds and post-gig performers frequented the hot spot for this unique dish that struck a balance between breakfast and dinner. Wells has been a part of the business for 48 of the 70 years it has served Harlem.
But the restaurant shut down after an early 1980’s recession. After several attempts to reopen at its original location on 133rd and Seventh Avenue, Wells “decided last year to return with a new concept,” a casual takeout, with “anticipation of franchising.”
She’s looking for investors who can take Harlem’s signature dish, and the family recipe, across the country to cities like Chicago, Atlanta, Los Angeles and her hometown, New Orleans. However, Increasing competition and her occasional health troubles, may have placed some stumbling blocks in her path.
Local customers like Nicole Banks, who’s lived in Harlem for 34 years, admits that versions of chicken and waffles can now be found on every corner, at Amy Ruth’s on 116th Street, Melba’s on Frederick Douglass Boulevard and Harlem Wing & Waffle, also on Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Boulevard. But Wells is “home” and “where Miss Wells goes, the neighborhood goes” Banks said.
“When you expect home cooking, you want to go home,” Banks said. “Well, this is it. Ms. Wells is like Harlem’s mother.”







Increasing competition and occasional health troubles, may have placed some stumbling blocks in her path.